Blogging has been exceptionally light the past month or more because Emmi and I were planning, and then enjoying, a vacation to several Hawaiian Islands: Moloka’i and Kaua’i.
First week was spent camping on Moloka’i, a relatively undeveloped Island by any standards. Positively primitive by Oahu/Maui/Kaua’i standards. There isn’t a single traffic light on the island and with a total population of around 8,000, it’s easy to find places away from people - especially tourists. The ratio of locals to haoles is much higher and I found the locals on Moloka’i to be more friendly than on the other Hawaiian Islands I’ve visited (all of them except Lana’i.) I suspect this was due in part because we were keeping a low impact profile by camping and weren’t there to spec out a 15,000 square foot monster house.
While the lack of traffic lights was refreshing, there is a challenging dearth of street signs on Moloka’i as well. We arrived late at night on a Sunday, picked up the rental car just minutes before the place closed and set out to find our first campsite on an Island neither of us had visited before and which clearly rolls up it’s sidewalks and streets by about 5:00 PM on a Sunday. It took a bit of creative orienteering using headlamps and three maps (each of which differed from each other and none of which was entirely accurate) before we found Papohaku Beach. Our first look at Moloka’i didn’t come until the following morning…

In a word: Beautiful! In another word: Windy! The first day was spent in Kaunakakai finding supplies you can’t travel with (like camp stove fuel) and kicking back to catch our breath. Moloka’i is renowned for it’s sunsets, and I have to say I’d agree…

Day two was for a little more exploring. We headed East. Along the way, the “Rainbow Garden” maintained by the “Peace Crusaders of America Inc” was an interesting, if accidental, find by Emmi.

It’s the place to go on Moloka’i if you want to find out where you aren’t (click image for larger picture):

The end of the road East revealed some of the most stunning views…

On the way back, we got to be part of a genuine cattle drive. OK, so we were caught behind a cattle drive. All right, all right, already. We waited while the local “ranch” moved a few cows down the street. Still, that’s an authentic Hawaiian paniolo!

We shared the campsite on Papohaku with a small group/family of locals who appeared to be living there. Camping permits allow for three consecutive days at any one site. In talking with a man whom appeared to be the leader of the clan - if I recall, his name was Reggie - I learned they had been there over two months. He generously explained to me how to beat the permit system. At $3/night, it’s hardly worth my effort. But for these folks, who appeared to live off what they could catch and sell from fishing, I could see where it would make a difference. Besides, Reggie also explained to me the economics in play on the Island. Big resort money has squeezed the locals to the point they can’t afford to live in much of the housing available on the Island. Reggie was not the last local on this trip to describe this situation. Here is the view from our tent across the campsite to where Reggie’s group was staying…

After three nights at Papohaku Beach, it was time to pull up stakes and move to One Ali’i Beach. Much more open, completely vacant and very windy…

But what a view! Here’s looking across the water to Lana’i…

And here’s our humble tent. Did I mention the campsite was vacant?

Staged here, we pressed North to the Kalaupapa lookout and a view of the Makanalua Peninsula and Kalaupapa settlement, site of the infamous leper colony. To the far right of the Peninsula is a volcanic crater with a lake in the center that goes down 800 feet.

We then drove back up around to Papohaku Beach and ended up at Kapukahehu Beach…

The surf here, as at every exposed beach, was very rough. Around the edges, the beach was rather rough as well…

The morning of our departure from Moloka’i to Kaua’i, the sea was unbelievably calm. I had only seen it calmer than this once before, after a stay in a cottage along Anini Beach on Kaua’i.

On the way, we stopped for lunch and I spied, on the restaurant billboard, a display of support from someone who is a fan of both peace and Mercedes Benz.

We purposefully stayed off the grid while camping on Moloka’i. While definitely worth it and necessary, it had it’s drawbacks. After jumping back on the grid for our journey to Kaua’i, we discovered the airline we had booked flights with, Aloha Airlines, had gone out of business after 61 years in the skies. So there was a bit of a scramble to find passage from Moloka’i to Kaua’i. But find it we did, and arrived safely at the cottage in which I had stayed before.

The plants around the place had grown more in two years than stuff grows in ten years back in Colorado. The following day, it was off to Hanakapiai Falls for my traditional solo trek. I was on the Kalalau Trail just before sunrise and could tell I was first on the trail, given the number of spider webs I was walking through that had been cast across the path over night. As usual, the Na Pali coast is exceptionally beautiful, no matter what the weather.

Upon arriving Hanakapiai Beach, I was once again greeted by a magnificent, solitary `Auku`u. All is well in the world…

The surf at Hanakapiai Beach was gloriously loud and rough. A hiker can usually feel Hanakapiai Beach before they actually hear or see the surf, but that was especially true this morning. Great, grand thunderous booms as the waves landed on the beach and rocks.

I was happy to discover the trail up to the falls had been cleared somewhat and better marked. Even better, I hadn’t seen any trash alone the way. When last up this way close to two years ago, I ended up packing out a pretty good amount of other people’s trash.


On the way back, I also stopped at the Heiau where Janet and I were married. The previous trail, which clipped some private property, had been blocked off, so I had to search a bit to find the trail up to the Heiau. With the trail not as easy or obvious, there are fewer casual visitors so I had the place to myself for the better part of an hour before I headed back down to Ke’e Beach to meet Emmi.

The next day was a visit to Waimea Canyon. I hadn’t been up here for close to 15 years and it was more magnificent than I remembered.

From the end of the road, just past Kokee State Park, we hiked a couple of miles of the Pihea Trail. It rained just about the entire hike, but it gave the trail a very Jurassic Park kind of feel.


The trail follows a ridge line which serves as a break to the clouds coming up from the Na Pali coast, hence the constant rain. This picture gives a good view of the ridge break. Looking over the edge, the drop was a good 25 meters down before disappearing into the mist, so I’m sure it was a good deal farther.

Some more shots of Waimea Canyon on the way down. It was late in the day and the sunlight was doing some interesting things with the canyon walls…


The Friday before our return, I took Emmi up to Hanakapiai Falls. For your viewing pleasure, once again, the Na Pali coast…

That evening, we tried to catch a sunset from Anini Beach, but alas, it was a bit cloudy. This is as good as it got, but impressive nonetheless…

One regret from this trip…I wasn’t able to snag a piece of that excellent Hanalei pizza. They didn’t open until an hour after we had to live leave ([Edit History - 2008.04.24] Gad! What a typo! I really, really, REALLY wanted a piece of that pizza.)

Ah, well. A good reason by itself to come back. I substituded with a couple of excellent chocolate brownies from the bakery across the way. Yum.
A hui ho…